Akwaaba & Ahgo - Experiencing Ghana

After leaving Casablanca, the MV Explorer needed to make a quick stop. The destination: The Canary Islands! However, we were just anchoring in the harbor to refuel. The approach in was beautiful and probably made everyone wish we could have stayed for a few days (not on the ship, but on Las Palmas). Instead, 5 hours later we were back on track to Takoradi, Ghana.

Approach to the Canary Islands!

 Just another day (or 5 hours) floating out near the Canary Islands

We arrived in the Takoradi Port at 8:00am and waited for the ship to clear. At about 10:30am and after a quick breakfast, Alison, Carla, and I went off to explore Takoradi. We were docked a little ways away from the port gate, so SAS arranged shuttles to run non-stop to/from the ship to the port gate. When exiting the ship, there was a small market selling all types of items (probably just to rip of the tourists coming off cruise ships). The difference between these individuals and the people trying to sell items in Morocco was that the Ghanaians were extremely friendly. They would smooth talk you, explain they wanted to give you something for free (which obviously wasn’t the case), or ask your name and start making a wristband/bracelet with your name on it. You really had to be determined to say, “No,” otherwise you might end up buying anything and everything. After successfully navigating the vendors, we hopped on the shuttle and headed out of the port area.

When the shuttle came to a stop, we were immediately swarmed by taxi drivers wishing to drive us wherever we wanted to go. After a bit of haggling, we agreed on a price and the driver took us into the city center. The first place our group needed to go was to a money exchange or a bank to get some Ghanaian cedi. Ghanaian cedi is about $2 to $1 (USD). The driver of the taxi, after realizing we needed to go to a bank; took us to the “Black Market.” The black market was 5 guys sitting on a bench outside a shady looking building. The taxi driver called one of the men over and began haggling an exchange rate. Mind you…the driver was haggling with the individual who was standing directly outside my window. I definitely kept my wallet in my pocket. Carla, Alison, and I explained we didn’t have any US dollars to exchange (even though we did) besides the $10 we just gave to the driver to take us into town. After understanding this, the black market individual decided he wouldn’t do any transaction with us…no problem there! We exited the vehicle and made for the nearest bank (only about 1 block away) in the hopes they would have a working ATM. Luckily they did, so we were able to get some cedi. We wandered around the markets, which were similar to Morocco, except they were on both sides of main streets, instead of down narrow alleyways. We made a few purchases and then heading back to the ship because Carla had a field program that afternoon. Our taxi driver waited for us the whole time we were in town and took us right back to the port gate.

When we got back to the port, I decided to browse the vendors and struck up a few conversations with the sellers. A lot of my conversations revolved around soccer, as a Ghana-Egypt World Cup Qualifying match (soccer) was taking place that afternoon. I gave the Ghanaians a hard time for Ghana beating the US in the last World Cup (in 2010) and they invited me to come back to watch the Ghana-Egypt match with them on a small television in the building next door. After grabbing lunch and relaxing on the ship for a bit, I went down to catch part of the game. When I arrived, Ghana was already up 3-1 with the second half about to start. The Ghanaians were ecstatic and cheering the entire second half and Ghana didn’t let up. The eventually ended up winning the match 6-1, which was a huge surprise as Egypt hadn’t even lost a qualifying match yet. This decision practically assures Ghana a spot in the 2014 World Cup in Brazil. In fact, Ghana would have to lose by 5 goals in a 2nd match against Egypt, in Cairo, Egypt on Oct. 28th.

After celebrating the Ghanaian victory, I headed back to the ship for a quiet night in. I was going to be the trip liaison for a field program early the next morning, so I was hoping to get a good night’s sleep. In addition, the heat and sun just took a lot out of me and I was exhausted after feeling like I didn't accomplish a whole lot during the day. A bunch of staff met in Glazer (Faculty/Staff lounge), played some cards, and we called it a night.

The next day at 8:00am, I was headed on a program to the Atomkwa Village. This is a small village about one and a half hours from Takoradi. We had a fantastic tour guide, Steven, was gave us a ton of information about Ghana. Whenever Steven wanted to tell us something he called out “Ahgo” and we all would respond “Ahmay.”  He would then rattle off tons of facts. Here’s some for you: The word “Ghana” means “Warrior King.” Ghana was the first African country to gain independence and did so in 1957. Ghana’s official language is English. Ghana has always been rich in natural resources (mainly gold, petroleum, and natural gas…which is what brought the British to the area). Ghanaian moonshine is called Akpeteshie, and is nicknamed “Kill Me Quick” or “Lean on the Wall.” Ghana is a presidential constitutional republic and has 10 regions. I could go on and on (as Steven did), but I’ll get back on track.

When our group arrived to the Atomkwa Village, we were welcomed ("Akwaaba") and taken to the community center instead of a meeting area outside (due to rain). We started our visit by paying a courtesy call to the paramount chief and elders of the village, who thanked us for being there. Next up was a drumming and dance performance by some of the villagers, who were incredible. They did some very difficult acrobatic moves and were very entertaining overall. Afterwards, everyone in our group participated in a naming ceremony, where we would be given our African name. As the group leader, I was asked to complete the full ceremony with the village chief. After completing the ceremony, I was given my African name, Yaw Duku. The students then did a shortened version of the ceremony before being brought to the village chief and given their African name. In addition, everyone was given a certificate and welcomed into the Atomkwa Village community.

 Acrobatic/Dance Performance at the Atomkwa Village

 Naming Ceremony for Students (shortened version) 

 Two students getting their African Name from the Village Chief

 Group Photo with the Atomkwa Village Chief

After the ceremony, we were supposed to walk to the village school as well as see the clinic; however, it began down pouring outside, which turned the streets to mud and would have made it difficult to walk around the village (we also had a student in a wheelchair that would not have been able to participate). Instead, we all stayed in the community center and participated in a dance workshop. In addition, some of the younger kids and village members came to the community center, so the students were still able to interact with locals and play with the kids.

Dance Workshop in Atomkwa Village

Afterwards we headed to Coconut Grove Beach Resort for lunch. This was vastly different area than the village. Whereas the village was old, quaint, and looked like it had been around for hundreds of years, the resort was still being renovated and looked very modern. It honestly felt like it could have been on an expensive island in the Caribbean or elsewhere. The food was excellent (plantains especially) and the sun came out right when we got there, so it looked like we were on a tropical beach (which I guess, given our latitude, we technically were).

Coconut Grove Beach

Coconut Grove Beach Resort

After the 1.5 hour ride back to the ship, I decided to wander around Takoradi before having to board the ship for embarkation (the ship was moving in the evening to Tema, Ghana). I got lost, chatted with some locals, talked with some children getting out of school, and found a post office…pretty successful wandering in my opinion. I returned to the ship, showered (which was glorious), and crashed for the night at 10pm. In the morning we’d be in a new port and I’d be headed to spend another day with kids!

Captain Jeremy and Hotel Director John - Watching the Embarkation in Takoradi

“We need to be reminded sometimes that a sunrise lasts but a few minutes, but its beauty can burn in our hearts eternally.”