Feeling the Heat in Morocco

After one jam packed day at sea (there are Cultural & Logistical Pre-Port Meetings for the shipboard community leading up to a new country, which is usually spread out over two evenings), we were in port in Casablanca. It took a while to clear the ship, as Morocco requires a face-to-face meeting with all members of the shipboard community. This lasted from 8:00am till 11:30am, but luckily I was on-call, so I couldn't get off the ship anyways. The rest of the day (since I was stuck on the ship) was spent working on my huge event on the ship, the Sea Olympics, starting to plan my trip to Fés, and luckily having a quiet evening (no visitors to the VIP Lounge)!

The next morning, at 8:00am, I met with my group leaving for Fés, the third largest city in Morocco with approximately 1 million people. The city has been called the “Mecca of the West” and the “Athens of Africa.” Fés has two major medinas, a distinct section of the city typically walled containing many narrow and maze-like streets. Fes el Bali is the oldest walled part of Morocco and was originally founded between 789-808AD. UNESCO listed Fes el Bali as a world heritage site.

There would be six of us going together to Fés, Jess (Faculty/TA), Matt (Faculty/TA), Katie (TA), Clay (Videographer), Alison (RD), and I. After leaving the port area, we began searching for a taxi to take us to the Train Station, so we could catch our train to Fés. Thus began my haggling experience in Morocco. Everyone had told us that a taxi to the train station should cost no more than 50 dirham or about $6.50 total for 3 people (the exchange rate is $1 = 8.27 dirham). The first driver we spoke with was eager to take a group of 6. However, before getting in we needed to agree on a price. His first offer was 200 dirham…PER PERSON…um…no. He said he would bring it down to 100 per person (or a total of 600 for the group)…no thanks. The next driver we chatted with agreed on 50 dirham right away…check! We got in and had a short drive to the train station. However, this turned out to be extremely eventful as Morocco apparently doesn’t believe in traffic lanes or traffic rules…they’re really more like guidelines. Honestly, we were on a three lane road…five cars wide. The traffic was weaving in and out, cutting each other off, and missing side mirrors by centimeters. Add in the vespas, which were snaking their way in between these now 5 lanes and it was a bit chaotic! However, our driver easily maneuvered through everything and got us safely to our destination.

The next stage of our journey was a 4-hour train ride to Fés. We chose to ride first class instead of second, which was well worth the extra $5. First class had more room and more importantly, AC, which in the 90 degree weather, was much appreciated. In addition, I went to use the bathroom and found someone in the first class one, so I ventured to the next car (second class) and opened the bathroom door. I have never needed to go to the bathroom so bad as to use that small compartment. I went back and waited outside the first class bathroom, which was a standard level of cleanliness for a train bathroom.

After another 2.5 hours on the train, we arrived in Fés. I once again needed the bathroom (staying hydrated!), so I went to the men’s restroom at the train station and saw a line of men waiting for the 4 stalls. To my right was what I would consider to be a urinal trough (on the ground) in the US. I instinctively went over to it and did the necessary prep work. I then saw there were four faucet heads which would pour into the “urinal trough.” My next thought was…I’m…in…Morocco…MAYBE this isn't a urinal. Now all of this happened in a matter of about 2 seconds, but I caught myself, played it off, and went to the back of the line waiting for the stalls. I’m not sure what the penalty is for urinating in a basin for washing feet before prayer, but I’m pretty sure they would have been justified in cutting off a hand, foot, or something else entirely. Luckily, no faux pas on my part, and I left the train station having not offended an entire religion!

We left the train station and once again worked to haggle with a taxi driver to take us to the Old Medina, where we’d be meeting our contact to take us to the riad (or a traditional Moroccan house with an interior garden or courtyard) we rented for the night. It was a similar distance as the ride we took from the port to the train station, but no haggling was necessary as the driver’s first offer was 10 dirham...Done! Either he was being generous as I was sharing a taxi with two blond females…or everyone is REALLY getting ripped off in Casablanca. I think it may be a little of both.

After arriving in the Old Medina, we met our host Khalid, who was going to take us to the riad. Khalid started leading the way and soon turned and started walking into the Old Medina. After 5 minutes and 3 turns, I thought, “Okay…I can figure out the way back from here.” (Side note: we passed so many stray cats/kittens as we wound our way through the medina. They were adorable and gross…at the same time. No touching.) After 10 minutes and 10 turns in the medina, I thought, “I hope we are getting to the riad soon, otherwise it might be tough to get back out.” When we arrived at the riad after 20 minutes and 25 turns in the Old Medina, I realized, there was absolutely no chance of leaving and finding this place again. We had walked through street after street (including some dark sketch alleyways), turn after turn, and now were in the heart of the medina. It seriously felt like we were walking through a labyrinth that just kept going and going.

Our accommodations were awesome…3 floors, with 4 bedrooms, and a wonderful rooftop view! We were glad it was nice, because we truly believed we’d have to either stay here or die wandering back through the labyrinth that is the medina. After putting our stuff down, Khalid’s wife made us a plate of couscous, which we treated as a snack before dinner. It was delicious, and the peppers definitely had some kick to them.

View inside the riad from the 1st floor to the roof.

Our welcome couscous on the roof in Fés

Group on the rooftop overlooking the Old Medina

When finished, we decided to venture out of the riad to try and make our way back to the market area. In trying to remember our way, Jess started taking pictures of our turns, so we’d know where to go on our return trip to our accommodations. This was working well; then came Youssef. Youssef was 14 years old and immediately struck up a conversation with the group. We mentioned we were going to the market and Youssef was eager to show us the way  (of course he was). Youssef really liked Jess and kept speaking with her as we traveled back to the area we started in. Once we arrived, we tried to say goodbye (and thank you) to Youssef…who insisted we pay him for, “leading us” as we wandered through the medina. After giving him 10 dirham he said, “This is nothing,” and demanded more. I was NOT about to give him more, but Jess stepped in and explained she thought Youssef was just being nice and helping a friend. Youssef (like many men before him) ate out of Jess’s hand and after getting kisses on the cheek, happily went on his way. My lesson from this interaction was to never assume someone is just being nice and helping you find your way.

Part of our strategy to navigate the labyrinth (ie: pictures of me showing which direction to go).

Our group wandered the market, which was quite an experience. It was sensory overload, as there were so many sights, smells, and sounds as we walked street after street. Fragrances of fresh fruit, meat, spices, and more overwhelmed us as we walked around. The group was mainly browsing until we reached a pastry shop…we pretty much bought the whole store to fill the rest of the time as we wondered. The gender breakdown on the streets was easily 80%-20% men to women. Another interesting fact we noticed was that the coffee shops in Morocco were for men only. Instead of stopping in one to stand up for gender equality, our group made our way to Hotel Batha’s bar, where we relaxed with some AC and a Moroccan beer. Jess was trying to meet up with a friend, who was flying in to Fés, so we coordinated the schedules and figured he would be arriving late in the evening. While waiting, we decided to grab dinner at a place that was recommended, Snack Omar. It was an absolutely fantastic meal with delicious tajines (chicken, lamb, & vegetable) and Mint Tea (which is stupendous…and addicting) all for a very reasonable price!!

Mint tea...I wish I had some right now!

Jess’s friend, Joe, met up with us as the dinner was winding down, but early enough so we ordered a few more entrées to split amongst the group! After stuffing ourselves, we decided to head back to the riad to relax for the remainder of the evening. Getting back to the riad was the epitome of teamwork! We used our memory of the first time through, the pictures we had taken, as well as our instincts/intuition. We were even yelled at by locals, trying to explain one of the streets we entered was a dead end (though it wasn't) or the path was not the way we wanted to go (though it was). Somehow…we arrived safely to our riad (Roman Victor!). We relaxed on the roof overlooking the Old Medina (absolutely beautiful), talked till 2am, and then tried finding the Oakland A’s playoff game (as Matt’s a huge A’s fan) in the 300+ satellite TV channels. This did not happen, though it was interesting to flip though the channels in Morocco.

View of the Old Medina

The next morning, we headed out to grab breakfast and found a nice place near the Bab Bou Jeloud or “The Blue Gate”. It was already getting hot, but I had to get another glass of hot mint tea…it’s addicting. Afterwards we walked through the market, making our way to a tannery. The market was a very different experience in the morning compared to the evening. For one, the meat is fresh in the morning… authentically fresh. There were numerous stands where we saw camel heads (yes, you read that correctly), goat heads, and more hanging up…possibly to prove the animal was recently butchered.

The Bab Bou Jeloud (The Blue Gate) in Fés

Part way through the market an individual started talking to us about a nearby tannery and offered us a tour. We agreed and our guide led us down back alleys and side streets to a tannery away from the main area (which had a nice view overlooking the city). Tanning is the process of turning animal hides (mainly goat, sheep, cow, and camel) into leather. The factories do all the work, including taking the hides, removing the flesh/hair, smoothing the hides, and then rinsing and drying the hides. After this, the hides are dyed into a number of various colors. Tanners have used the vats (which can be seen from the terraces and local rooftops around them) for centuries. The entire process was fascinating to see (hides were literally drying everywhere you looked), but the smell of it all was not so pleasant.

Pictures from one of the tanneries in Fés

The Old Medina in Fés

After seeing a tannery, Alison, Matt, and I made our way back to the train station to catch the train back to Casablanca. The others were staying another night in Fés; however, Alison was On-Call that evening and I had a field program the next day, so we couldn't stay. We flagged down a taxi, negotiated a price, and were on our way. The taxi driver was extremely interesting as he has lived in Fés his whole life and has been driving a taxi for over 20 years. He never went to school/university, but over time he has learned 6 languages (he knows 7, including Arabic)…just by chatting it up with tourists. After a quick stop to grab some fruit for the 4-hour train ride, we hopped on and were sitting first class back to Casablanca.

"There is a wine world out there, full of pain, but filled with joy as well. The former keeps you on the path of growth and the latter makes the journey tolerable."